From Wine Country to Root Medicine: How Reclaimed Barrels Became Vessels of Food Justice, Homegrown Healing, and Garden Beauty

by Judith Yisrael July 2, 2025

There’s something powerful about giving something a second life—especially when that thing once held the deep, ruby richness of Napa Valley red wine.

When you lift the lid on one of our reclaimed half barrels, the first thing you’ll notice is the color. Deep plum stains swirl across the grain of the wood, almost like brushstrokes on canvas. These weren’t made in a factory—they were made slowly, over time, by fermentation, aging, and careful craft. Each barrel carries a story, and now it’s ready to hold yours.

At Yisrael Farms, we’ve done just that—and more. Over the years, we’ve not only turned reclaimed wine barrels into lush garden beds for ourselves, but we’ve also installed them in backyards, on porches, and in community spaces throughout our neighborhood. These humble barrels have helped families start (or expand) their garden journeys, making good, clean food more accessible—one seed, one harvest, one household at a time.

Some of them cradle leafy tree collards and echinacea blooms; others are stuffed with mint so fragrant it grabs your attention from a few feet away. We've pulled up turmeric roots in the fall from barrels set out in the warmest corner of our growing space. Our horseradish beds? Tucked into barrels, where they won’t run wild. Potatoes are a favorite, too—barrels make it easy to layer soil and straw, watching the greenery climb higher as tubers form deep below.

What started as a wine vessel has become a container for food justice, homegrown healing, and beauty.

Wine barrels on our urban farm featuring 3 types of potatoes.

Why Half Wine Barrels?

Half wine barrels are like the raised beds of small-space gardening—with personality. I love them for their sturdiness, rustic charm, and growing capacity. Whether you’ve got a full yard or just a patch of patio, a half barrel lets you grow something that nourishes.

Their generous depth allows for root crops and layered plantings, and the circular shape makes companion planting intuitive. I often tuck them near kitchen doors, decks, entrances, or along pathways where visitors can admire the growing greens or pick a sprig of mint on the way out.

And they last. These oak barrels were made to hold liquid under pressure. With proper care, they’ll hold soil and life for years to come.

Hugelkultur for the Win

Filling a barrel with good soil can add up—but here’s my trick: I practice a form of hugelkultur, a German-inspired method that uses decomposing wood and organic matter to build fertile planting beds.

At the base of the barrels, I add chunky materials— boulders, logs, branches, twigs—followed by layers of leaf litter, compost, and then nutrient-rich soil on top. Not only does this reduce the amount of bagged soil you need to purchase, but as the wood breaks down, it feeds the soil life and retains moisture.

It’s like building a slow-release food system right beneath your plants. Here's a closer look at how I recently prepared my half wine barrel for planting.

How to Prepare Your Half Wine Barrel for Planting (Step-by-Step)

Turning your barrel into a productive garden bed takes just a little prep. Here’s how I do it on the farm:

Step 1: Check for Drainage Holes

Most wine barrels weren’t made for gardening—they were made to hold liquid, not release it. That means they’re often completely sealed at the bottom. If you don’t add drainage holes, water will collect at the base of the barrel with nowhere to go—and that’s a fast track to root rot, mold, and even mosquito breeding.

Start by flipping your barrel over and drilling 5 to 7 holes evenly spaced across the bottom using a ½-inch drill bit. If the wood is extra thick or feels too hard, you can drill a smaller pilot hole first, then go up to the desired size. You want the holes large enough to allow water to freely escape, but not so large that your soil pours out with it.

Good drainage is critical to healthy root systems. When water can’t move through the soil, roots begin to suffocate from lack of oxygen. This stress can stunt plant growth or kill your plants entirely. Poor drainage also creates an ideal environment for fungal diseases, algae, and anaerobic bacteria to take hold—all of which disrupt the balance of your soil and lead to smelly, swampy conditions that are hard to recover from.

I’ve learned this firsthand on the farm. In the early days, I skipped drilling on one of our barrels, thinking the soil would be absorbent enough. Within a week, the mint looked waterlogged and wilted. When I finally dumped it out, the roots were black and slimy, and the bottom layer of soil smelled like a stagnant pond. Lesson learned: always make drainage your first step.

To take it a step further, I like to elevate the barrel slightly off the ground using bricks, pavers, or scrap wood. This not only helps water escape more easily, but also prevents the base of the barrel from sitting in moisture, which can rot the wood over time.

Good drainage sets the foundation for everything that follows. When your soil can breathe, your plants can thrive!

Step 2: Choose Your Placement

Before you fill your barrel with soil, think carefully about where it will live. Once it’s full, it’s heavy—like, really heavy. Moving it afterward is no small task, so choose your spot ahead of time.

Most plants need at least 6–8 hours of full sun, so look for a space that gets morning-to-afternoon light. If you're planting shade-tolerant herbs like mint or lemon balm, partial sun can still work.

I like to elevate our barrels by placing them on bricks, cinder blocks, or old pavers. Lifting them just a few inches off the ground allows air to circulate underneath, protects wood from sitting in pooled water, and extends the life of your barrel. It also helps with drainage and discourages pests like earwigs and slugs from nesting in the wet soil.

Consider wind exposure too. If you're growing tall plants (like tree collards or tomatoes), placing the barrel against a wall or near a fence can offer some wind protection without blocking the light.

Step 3: Create a Hugelkultur Base (Optional but Recommended)

Filling an entire half wine barrel with premium garden soil can be expensive. That’s why I use a technique called hugelkultur, which mimics the forest floor by layering decomposing wood and organic matter beneath the soil. It saves on soil costs and creates a long-lasting, nutrient-rich bed that improves with time.

Start with a base layer of thick, woody materials: small logs, broken branches, or untreated firewood scraps. This forms the foundation.

Add softer layers next: twigs, leaf litter, grass clippings, garden trimmings, or unfinished compost.

Top it all with your planting soil mix. As the wood decomposes, it slowly releases nutrients and acts like a sponge, holding moisture and creating pockets of air that support root growth.

I've noticed hugelkultur barrels stay moist longer, especially during hot spells. That means less watering, better plant health, and a more resilient growing environment overall.

Step 4: Add Your Soil Mix

Soil is the life of your garden—don’t skimp here. Barrels offer limited space, so every handful of soil should be packed with nutrients and structure.

I typically use a blend of:

40% compost – rich in organic matter to feed plants
40% organic potting soil – light and airy for root development
20% worm castings or mushroom compost – packed with microbial life and gentle nutrients

This combination supports both fast-growing greens and deep-rooted crops like turmeric or carrots. You may also decide to add a few handfuls of perlite or coconut coir to improve drainage and water retention, depending on what we’re planting.

Avoid using heavy topsoil or soil from your yard—it’s often too dense and may contain weed seeds or pests. If you’re buying bagged soil, look for ones labeled “raised bed mix” or OMRI-certified for organic gardening. For this barrel, I opted to use one bag (2 cu ft) EB Stone raised bed gardening soil. This organic mixture contains earthworm castings, aged fir bark, chicken manure, and volcanic pumice which assists with draining away excess water. I also added 1 bag (1 cu ft) of organic compost. With the boulders and wood I added earlier, I found this was the perfect amount for my barrel.

On the farm, we typically mix soil in small batches using a wheelbarrow or tarp, layering in our compost and worm castings until it smells earthy and looks rich and fluffy.

Step 5: Plant + Mulch

Now the fun begins—planting your barrel. Whether you're starting from seeds or seedlings, keep in mind how much space each plant needs. Overcrowding leads to competition for light and nutrients, and underplanting leaves room for weeds.

For diversity, we often plant one or two large center plants (like a tomato or tree collard), then ring the edges with smaller herbs or flowers. For roots like ginger or turmeric, give them ample spacing to expand underground.

After planting, mulch is your best friend. We use straw, shredded leaves, or wood chips to cover the soil surface. This holds in moisture, blocks weeds, and creates a stable soil temperature—especially helpful during California’s wild weather swings.

Our mulch often comes from what's on hand—pruned comfrey leaves, old straw or leaves, or even dried calendula stems after harvest. It's a way to feed the soil while staying low-waste and local.

Step 6: Water Deeply

Your first watering is foundational—it helps settle the soil, eliminate air pockets, and give plants a strong start.

Slowly water until you see water begin to drain from the bottom holes. That tells you the moisture has reached the root zone. A fast pour might only wet the top inch, leaving roots thirsty.

I use a drip irrigation system set on a timer to keep the barrel properly watered. I also check moisture levels by touch, not just by appearance. Stick your finger in the soil up to your second knuckle; if it feels dry, it’s time to water.

Establish a routine, especially in summer. Most barrels need watering every 2–3 days in peak heat, and daily if you're growing shallow-rooted herbs or greens. Add mulch as needed and monitor plant health weekly.

What Can You Grow?

You can get creative with your barrel garden—and we encourage you to! Here are a few combos we love:

1. Root Zone Barrel

Potatoes, horseradish, and ginger
Use straw layering for potatoes, and plant horseradish on one side so you can harvest laterally. Ginger thrives in our warmest spots, especially in the heat of summer.

2. Medicinal + Culinary Mix

Tree collards, echinacea, calendula, and garlic chives
This is one of our go-to barrel setups near the herb shed. Tree collards offer shade, while echinacea and calendula draw pollinators and provide medicine.

3. Fragrant Mint Barrel

Apple mint, spearmint, peppermint
Mint is aggressive, so growing it in barrels keeps it contained. Plus, it’s easy to water and harvest. Great for tea or a cool summer garnish.

4. Tropical Root Barrel

Turmeric and ginger
Warm-loving, vibrant roots that need rich, well-drained soil and a little extra warmth. We grow these in barrels placed on the south-facing wall of our studio to catch heat.

Gardening Tips for Half Barrel Success

1. Drainage Matters

Barrels weren’t made for soil—they were made to hold wine. So the first thing we do is drill at least 5 to 6 holes in the bottom for drainage. Without good drainage, roots can rot quickly, especially in rainy months.

We also add a layer of gravel or broken terracotta pots at the base. This helps prevent soil compaction at the bottom, improving air flow and allowing excess water to escape.

At Yisrael Farms, we place our barrels on bricks or wood blocks to keep them lifted slightly off the ground. This prevents rotting and extends the life of the wood.

2. Use High-Quality Soil

Once your barrel is prepped, soil quality is everything. I recommend a mix of compost, organic potting soil, and worm castings. Avoid cheap “topsoil” from big box stores—it’s often stripped of nutrients.

Our favorite mix for root veggies:

40% compost (preferably homemade or locally sourced)
40% organic potting soil
20% worm castings or mushroom compost

If you must buy soil, look for OMRI-listed products or blends labeled for “raised beds.” We sometimes add a little perlite or coconut coir for aeration, especially for mint or leafy greens.

3. Water Wisely

Barrels can dry out quickly, especially during Sacramento’s hot summers. A deep barrel needs consistent watering but not daily drenching.

We use a few strategies:

Mulch the top with straw or wood chips to retain moisture.
Install a slow-drip system if possible—barrels respond well to a slow soak.
On our busiest weeks, we even collect cooled water from our herbal infusion rinses to pour into the mint barrels. Every drop counts.

Stick your finger in the soil—if the top two inches are dry, it’s time to water. Don’t rely on surface moisture alone.

4. Rotate Seasonally

Your barrel garden can feed you year-round with thoughtful seasonal planting.

In the spring, go with leafy greens, carrots, beets, and calendula. Come summer, switch to tomatoes, basil, peppers, and okra (yes, it grows great in a barrel!). Fall is for collards, kale, and garlic. In winter, we grow hardy greens or cover with straw to let the soil rest.

Our own barrels change with the seasons, just like the land. We love watching their stories unfold with each new planting cycle.

Get Your Own Barrel

Ready to grow your own food, flowers, or medicine in a piece of Napa Valley history?

You can grab your own reclaimed half wine barrel from our online shop. Each one is hand-selected and ready to prep. By purchasing from us, you support regenerative agriculture, Black land stewardship, and the local food movement.

Whether you’ve got acres or a balcony, a half wine barrel is your invitation to begin.