A Taste of Tradition: Hoppin’ John and the Ghanaian Connection

As the January 1st approaches, many families in the Southern United States prepare a dish steeped in tradition: Hoppin’ John. This savory dish of black-eyed peas and rice is said to bring good luck and prosperity when eaten on New Year’s Day. But where does this tradition come from, and how is it connected to the African diaspora? Let’s dive into the rich history of Hoppin’ John and explore a delicious Ghanaian twist on this beloved meal.

The Origin of Hoppin’ John

The roots of Hoppin’ John trace back to West Africa, where black-eyed peas have been a staple crop for centuries. Enslaved Africans brought black-eyed peas to the Americas during the transatlantic slave trade. In African culinary traditions, black-eyed peas symbolize abundance and fertility—qualities that resonate with the coming year's theme of renewal and prosperity.

Hoppin’ John evolved in the Lowcountry of South Carolina and Georgia, a region heavily influenced by Gullah Geechee culture. This community, made up of descendants of enslaved West Africans, preserved their culinary and cultural traditions despite the hardships of slavery. The Gullah Geechee and many communities like it, practiced cultural cooking, not only as nourishment for the body, but also as a form of resistance.

The dish’s name, Hoppin’ John, carries an air of mystery. Some say it was named after children hopping around the table in excitement before eating, while others believe it refers to a Charleston vendor with a limp who sold the dish. Early recipes for Hoppin’ John often featured "red peas" or "cow peas" rather than black-eyed peas, cooked alongside rice in a rich, flavorful broth—a cooking method deeply rooted in African culinary traditions.

Why Black-Eyed Peas for New Year’s?

The symbolism of black-eyed peas as a New Year’s Day dish is multifaceted. In the Southern United States, they are considered a harbinger of good luck, prosperity, and abundance. Paired with collard greens, symbolizing money, and cornbread, said to represent gold, the dish becomes a trinity of wealth and fortune. Traditions include burying a shiny dime in the pot of Hoppin’ John for an extra dose of luck or leaving three peas on the plate to symbolize luck, wealth, and health for the coming year.

Beyond its symbolic meaning, the dish reflects a shared culinary thread among communities with African heritage. The technique of cooking rice and beans together—seen in Cuba’s Moros y Cristianos and Louisiana’s Pois et Riz Collé—spread wherever African influences took root. Each variation adapts local ingredients while keeping its cultural essence intact.

A Ghanaian Twist with Personal Reflections

This Ghanaian twist on Hoppin’ John holds a special place in my heart. The recipe was adapted from my mother's recipe and many others and it quickly became a beloved staple in my Elders Cooking classes that I taught at my local community center. Teaching the community elders to prepare this vegetarian version was nostalgic for many, sparking conversations about family traditions, shared meals, and plant-based eating. Seeing their joy as they recreated a familiar dish with a unique twist was incredibly rewarding.

Collard greens, traditionally served with Hoppin’ John, grow well in cool weather and is known to be sweeter during the cold season. This is because the cold weather increases the sugar content of collard greens resulting in a flavor that is richer and tastier. They pair beautifully with the creamy coconut milk and warming spices of Ghanaian black-eyed peas. This dish bridges continents, connecting the African diaspora with its culinary roots while creating something fresh and new.

Reflection on Cultural Resilience

Hoppin’ John is more than just a dish; it is a symbol of resilience, adaptability, and the enduring power of cultural traditions. The enslaved Africans who brought black-eyed peas to the Americas transformed this humble legume into a culinary emblem of hope and abundance. By preparing and sharing dishes like Hoppin’ John or its Ghanaian-inspired variation, we celebrate this legacy and honor the strength of those who came before us. Those who used cooking as a form of resistance. Cooking traditional dishes keeps ancestral knowledge alive, especially for marginalized communities whose cultures have been destroyed by colonization, displacement, or assimilation.

As you enjoy this dish, take a moment to reflect on the journey of its ingredients and the history they carry. Whether you’re ringing in the New Year with traditional Hoppin’ John or savoring a Ghanaian-inspired version, let it be a reminder of the unifying power of food and the stories it tells.

Recipe: Ghanaian Style Black-Eyed Peas (Inspired by Hoppin’ John)

Ingredients:

• 3 15oz cans organic black-eyed peas

• 1 medium onion, chopped

• 6 cloves garlic, minced

• 3 tablespoon organic fresh ginger, minced

• 1/2 cup organic butter (earth balance for vegan option)

• 1-2 medium tomato, diced (or 1 can diced tomatoes)

• 1 tablespoons of berbere (or more for additional spice)

• 1 teaspoon smoked paprika

• 1 teaspoon turmeric

• 2 cups coconut milk

• 1 teaspoon salt (adjust to taste)

• 1 cup cooked quinoa (or grain of your choosing)

• Fresh cilantro or parsley and chives for garnish (optional) I like a few diced organic avocados as well

Instructions:

1. Cook the Base:

   • Heat butter in a large saucepan over medium heat.

   • Add the onion, garlic, and ginger, and sauté until fragrant and the onions are translucent, about 5 minutes.

2. Add the Spices and Tomatoes:

   • Stir in the spices and heat for about 1 minute before adding the tomatoes. Simmer until everything is well incorporated, about 4 minutes.

3. Combine Peas and Coconut Milk:

   • Add the black-eyed peas to the pan and stir to combine.

   • Pour in the coconut milk and season with salt. Let it simmer for 10-15 minutes, allowing the flavors to meld together. Add water if needed to reach desired consistency.

4. Serve:

   • Serve the Ghanaian black-eyed peas over cooked quinoa or other grain for a hearty meal. Garnish with fresh cilantro or parsley and avocado if desired.

5. Storage and Reheating Instructions:

   • Store leftover black-eyed peas in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

   • To reheat, gently warm in a saucepan over medium-low heat, adding a splash of water or coconut milk to loosen the consistency if needed. Come back and leave a comment if you decide to try it!

Come back and leave a comment if you decide to try it!

Enjoy!

~ Judith

Additional Reading

• Twitty, Michael W. The Cooking Gene: A Journey Through African American Culinary History in the Old South. Amistad, 2017.

• Opie, Frederick Douglass. Hog and Hominy: Soul Food from Africa to America. Columbia University Press, 2008.